I don't know what he wants to fix but that worked for me. By the way the new ones got there the day after the truck was running. What a way to make a living. Just a thought hope this helps some one. J Krout. GS As many of us are in the repair business perhaps a man of your technical cunning might help devise a means to control the stresses.
It has also been published that automotive frames cannot be welded, nevertheless, techniques exist which are in regular use. One might consider adapting a similar technique; a suitable collar, or splint if you will, to redirect the stress I would suspect a piece of similar spring suitably cut, ground and fashioned to serve as filler, and select a suitable GTAW torch as my heat source, as being the right stuff to use, however I lack the necessary metallurgical knowlege; its beyond my level of experience and I can only hope a suitable structure would develop in the HAZ that could be corrected by later treatments.
I do recognize the kernel of practicality from which your description of the problem as being irreparible stems. There are facilities that are equipped to fabricate new springs, and indeed it likely is a valid and more practical conclusion to pursue that alternative wherever possible.
I continue to hold your opinion in high regard, and bow to your experience and discretion. The steel is typically through-hardened by heat treatment and the springs are often shot-peened to improve fatigue life. Both of these effects are reduced near the weld by the heat of welding. If a spring broke then it broke at a high stress location.
A weld can never match the fatigue strength of un-welded base metal, and a weld is not going to last very long at a location with a high cyclical stress range. I'd be interested in hearing success stories, but my opinion is that springs aren't good candidates for weld repair.
Try it if you must and if a second failure won't hurt anybody, but order a new part first Bill "The more I learn about welding the more I find there is to learn A spring like that would fall more into the range I believe if it was old school enuff to be a 10 anything. Mixed results would be what you would get. The first and main question is what broke it?? I would say a "spring guy" could do it for sure. Welded, hammered, properly annealed and reground.
Prolly cheaper to get a new sping that way. Could you add a leaf to it? MM P The applicator shanks used in our area are not spring steel. We just pre heat and weld with They hold fine until they hit rock with them. So it's sorta like a ripper tooth?? Preheat at least 3" each side of the break, and weld with !! Norm : PS. Broken leaf spring symptoms also include hearing a squeaking sound or a scraping noise when you drive. Yes, but not recommended.
It also depends on what you need to weld. The area around the weld will lose its strength and will then break more easily. If you are planning to do it, then you must pre-heat the spring, otherwise, cracks will appear after welding. Use special filler metals so that the weld will have similar properties to the original material. Yes, leaf springs often tend to flatten out over time.
Bending it again will not last long if the spring is too old, to begin with. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
But what is the safest way to do it? Can you weld leaf springs? This said, what happens if you attempt to weld springs? Spring steel to mild steel Posts Latest Activity Photos. Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. Using anHH Is there a solid wire to use? Or would some kind of flux wire be a better choice? It will have medium impact. Low hydrogen rod was recommended, but I don't have a stick welder. Tags: None. I never had any luck welding spring steel to anything to last very long.
If I was to do it, E70S-6 will do, just try to keep the heat to a minimum, that is not the weld heat, but the amount of time you spend on the weld. Comment Post Cancel. Spring steel Thanks, Rocky D.
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